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    cook the books
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    Pan-Seared Lamb Steaks with Anchovy Butter
    Food and Wine
    When I'm looking to put on the Ritz for a fancy dinner party, I often center the menu around a majestic lamb roast, either a whole bone-in leg of lamb or a rolled-and-stuffed shoulder. But when I crave lamb on a weeknight, it's lamb steaks all the way. Depending on where you shop, lamb steaks can be harder to find than other cuts, but their tender meatiness makes them worth seeking out. The best cuts for quick-cooking are sirloin and leg steaks (the sirloin, basically the upper leg or hip portion, will be boneless, while leg steaks contain a single round bone).The ideal thickness for lamb steaks is 3/4 to 1 inch, but thicker steaks are no problem, especially boneless sirloin ones. Just butterfly them by cutting the steaks almost in half horizontally and folding the meat open like a book to make thinner, quicker-cooking steaks. If the steaks have a thick cushion of fat around the edges, trim it down to a modest 1/4 inch, and, to keep leg steaks from curling during cooking, make shallow incisions every couple of inches around the perimeter to break up the membrane that will shrink and buckle in a hot skillet.Much of the excellence of lamb steaks comes from their natural tenderness, but if there's time, pre-seasoning the meat (anywhere from 1 to 8 hours ahead) will further enhance the texture and flavor. I keep the seasoning simple to allow the sweetness of the lamb shine through, but I do kick things up at the finish by slathering the hot steaks with a lusty anchovy butter. The flavored butter takes advantage of two things I learned about lamb long ago: lamb loves butter, and lamb loves anchovies. There's some magical alchemy that happens when the meaty lamb juices blend with the richness of the butter and the funky brine of the anchovy. A bit of fresh lemon zest and parsley provides the perfect counterpoint.Lamb steaks are best cooked to medium-rare, or medium, if you prefer; the most effective way to get it right is to brush the surface with olive oil and sear the steaks in a hot skillet or grill pan (cast iron works well). Once the surface develops a handsome crust, lower the heat and continue cooking until they reach the desired internal temperature (125°F to 130°F for medium-rare and 135°F to 140°F for medium). Transfer the steaks to plates or a carving board and immediately smear the tops with the flavored butter (the heat of the steaks melts the butter into an instant sauce), and let the steaks rest for 3 to 5 minutes before cutting into them. Of course, if it's grilling weather (or you’re one of those intrepid cooks who likes to grill no matter the forecast), by all means, cook them outdoors. A slight kiss of smoke will only make them better.
    Amalfi Eton Mess
    Food52
    This is a dessert that I discovered when I was researching for my cookbook, The London Cookbook. This is an Italian riff on the British classic that I happen to love quite as much as the original strawberry classic. It’s based on a version I had at Locanda Locatelli, a truly spectacular Italian restaurant in London. If the name Locatelli sounds familiar, it’s because the chef, Giorgio Locatelli is the author of Made in Italy, the comprehensive tome on Italian cooking. Eton Mess is a delicious improvisation of broken up meringue, berries, and whipped cream. Giorgio omits the berries and opts instead for a homemade Amalfi lemon curd and sorbet. At Locanda Locatelli, he includes a foam and cookies and makes his sorbet from scratch. I find the foam and cookies an unnecessary distraction, and I tend to buy the lemon sorbet. My latest obsession, however, is Jeni’s Lemon Buttermilk Frozen Yogurt (https://shop.jenis.com/frozen-yogurts/lemon-buttermilk-frozen-yogurt-pint/), which gives just the right creamy tanginess here. The lemon curd is from another recipe in my book and comes thanks to the restaurant DuckSoup. Having tried it once, it is now the only lemon curd I make. If you love lemon curd as much as I do—it’s terrific on scones, toast, English muffins and eaten directly from the jar—double the recipe. It will keep in the fridge for a few days or even longer if you use a sterile canning jar. Mess is meant to be as random, as its meaning suggests. If you don’t have sorbet, skip it. If you prefer a different ratio of cream to curd, do it your way. If you like your meringues chewier, cut their baking time. This recipe is meant to be broken.
    Garam Masala Ala Madhur Jaffrey
    Food.com
    I know that garam masala recipe often vary family to family and region to region. I couldn't say where this one is specifically from but it comes courtesy of the fabulous Madhur Jaffrey, her World of the East Vegetarian Cooking book. This is quite heavy in cardamom, so if that's not a flavour you enjoy, this might not be the mix for you. Note that when it says cardamom seeds, that doesn't mean the pods, it means the seeds inside.
    Escalivada (Eggplant Salad With Onions and Peppers)
    Food.com
    Based on a recipe from Williams-Sonoma’s book, Savoring Spain & Portugal. The intro to the recipe states, “Although escalivar means 'to grill,' many restaurant cooks in Spain roast their vegetables, as it is easier and requires less maintenance. I have joined them.“ I haven’t tried this yet.
    Hamburger Wellington
    Food.com
    This is based on a recipe from George Foreman's book, Indoor Grilling Made Easy. His intro says, "These are more like hamburger panini, so the burgers are meant to be on the thinner side." I made mine on the George Foreman grill (somehow I've managed to collect about 3 of them in various sizes!); however, any panini maker would work, too. You can also adapt these for a flat griddle, preferably a grooved one, keeping in mind that where the instructions say "grill" you'll need to grill both sides of the patties and the sandwiches, adjusting cooking times accordingly.
    Chocolate Cake, 1847
    Food52
    Adapted from The Ladies Receipt Book by Eliza Leslie. This, friends, is the earliest-yet-found printed recipe for Chocolate Cake. “Wait, really?” you may be thinking… but it’s true! Older recipes that mention Chocolate and Cake were actually referring to cakes meant for serving with chocolate, usually of the hot and drinkable variety. Though cakes containing chocolate as an ingredient date back further—the Marquis de Sade mentions one in a 1779 letter sent to his wife from prison—we have found no written recipe until Eliza Leslies’ 1847 book, The Ladies Reciept Book. Eliza’s recipe calls for using grated chocolate or “prepared cocoa.” I love that both the Chocolate Cake and the Chocolate Chip Cookie evolved containing bits of the heavenly stuff, so grated chocolate it is. As with the Indian Meal Cake, Eliza used an entire nutmeg. In fact, you rarely see an early 19th-century recipe that does not call for nutmeg. They were crazy for the stuff. The highlight of this cake, for me at least, is the icing. The word icing evolved from this thick mixture of egg whites and sugar; for ages, bakers would pour it over a hot cake, then return it to the oven until it was dry and, well, ice-like in its smoothness. Eventually bakers stopped icing the hot cake, and, like in the recipe below, poured the mixture over the a cooled cake, then set it aside to dry for a few hours (hello Royal Icing). As an aside, Eliza calls for lemon oil, rose extract, or vanilla extract to flavor the icing. Until the early 19th century, vanilla was used as a perfume by those well-off rather than for cooking or baking purposes due to the high cost of production (second only to Saffron).
    Desperation Minestrone Soup
    Food52
    This recipe is meant to be an edible way to compost all your wayward produce. “Pantry vegetables” are the sturdy ones that last a while in the crisper drawer of your fridge. The green veggies cook quickly, which means you should add them toward the end of the soup process. Another great addition from the garbage bowl: a Parmesan or Pecorino rind to add a rich, cheesy flavor to the broth. Next time you finish a wedge, save the rind in your freezer until it’s soup time. Experiencing a different type of desperation? This soup can also be made with canned or frozen vegetables. If pre-cooked or canned, simply stir into the soup with the beans. For canned, it's best to rinse thoroughly. When I’m in the mood for a little more protein, I start by browning 1/2 pound of organic chicken or turkey sausage at the beginning of this recipe. Reprinted with permission of the author from The Wellness Project, copyright 2017 Phoebe Lapine, Pam Krauss Books.
    Mortar and Pestle Garlic Aioli
    Food and Wine
    My bible for life in the south of France is Richard Olney’s Lulu’s Provençal Table. It’s a book that not only chronicles the intuitive regional cooking and joie de vivre of Lucie “Lulu” Peyraud—matriarch of the legendary wine estate Domaine Tempier in Bandol—but also celebrates the importance of tradition and sharing “at table.” I’ve been fortunate to sit at Lulu’s table twice. The first time she was 95 years old and still swimming in the Mediterranean every day. The second time was last summer. At 100, I found her living a life less aquatic but every bit as spirited.Lulu and her daughter, Laurence, greeted us on the terrace under the shade of maritime pines where she’s hosted countless guests, from harvest lunches for her large family of seven children to intimate meals shared with dear friends like Alice Waters.Before lunch, Lulu led me into her kitchen to show me her collection of mortars and pestles. The largest white marble mortar, with a wooden pestle and four knob-like handles, was filled with aioli the color and texture of lemon curd. She said that the mortier came with the house, which her father inherited in 1917, and offered to Lulu and her husband, Lucien, in 1940. The edges of that mortar, rounded and chipped, spoke to more than a century of use making sauces like rouille and pistou—and aioli.The word aioli means “garlic oil,” and it’s a noun for both the mayonnaise-like sauce and the exuberant meal, or Le Grand Aioli, where the sauce is star. In her recipe, Lulu calls for a whole head of garlic, but I find that far too potent for my non-Provençal palate. I typically use just two cloves—sometimes more, especially in late spring when fresh bulbs from the new garlic crop arrive at my farmers market.It takes patience, and a few tries, to master making aioli with a mortar and pestle. I’ve learned to use a fine-tipped squeeze bottle to administer the oil in consistent drops at the start before an emulsion forms. Classic aioli contains no lemon juice or acid of any kind; the bite of garlic provides the sole counterpoint to the richness of the olive oil and egg yolks. The finished sauce is unctuous, thick, and velvety smooth—and adds immense flavor to anything you dunk in it.On that June day, Lulu served platters of steamed sweet potatoes, green beans, beets, artichokes, and carrots alongside boiled eggs and poached salt cod. She poured a 2015 Domaine Tempier Bandol rouge, slightly chilled, and kept her glass full throughout lunch. The rest of us coveted the estate’s legendary rosé at first, but soon switched to the red and noted how both were equally adept at mingling with all that garlic.This is a recipe for those who take pleasure in two things: the flavor of raw garlic and deliberate, meditative cooking. Beyond the superior quality of an aioli made in the mortar, to me, the tool has become more than a means to the end. Making aioli by hand gives me a rare moment of calm focus—a spiritual moment in the kitchen. And it’s cooking traditions like this, found the world over, that we must consciously preserve for generations to come.
    Pork Tenderloin with Charred Tomatillo Salsa
    Food and Wine
    Versatile pork tenderloin has a number of admirable attributes—it’s easy to prepare (just don’t overcook it), it plays well with endless global flavors (from lemongrass to Creole mustard), and feeds a crowd without blowing your budget. But let’s be honest: pork tenderloin will never make your heart race the way a well-marbled rib eye or glistening red snapper does.That is, unless you partner it with a hot grill, wood-fueled fire, and a seductive ally. The lean, mild-tasting meat is made for punchy sidekicks. In this recipe, grilled pork tenderloin is paired with one of my favorite supporting players: a tangy green salsa made from blistered tomatillos, onion, garlic, and serranos, which takes on a complex, caramelized depth from all of the charred and blackened bits. Finishing the sauce with a splash of thickened cream isn’t essential, but it makes everything better, bringing the tart, bitter, and spicy flavors together beautifully.This green salsa can be made up to five days in advance, so it’s a great opportunity to make the most of a lingering fire (from, say, last night’s dinner) and cook ahead—a time-efficient practice that I encourage in my books. Or, you can char the vegetables in a grill basket first, toss them in a food processor, and then puree them into a sauce while the meat rests.Another reason to direct pork tenderloin to the grill? You can use your tongs to roll the meat over the grates for even browning. That means more crispy, delicious exterior—and no panic about flipping, say, a fish fillet or chicken breast without tearing the skin.Serve thinly sliced rounds of pork over a pool of the tomatillo sauce, or pour the salsa over the top. When it’s paired with warm corn tortillas or steaming white rice, I ask you, dear reader, would you call this meal boring? Never.
  3. Mar 31, 2021 · Cook the books is a slang term for using accounting tricks to make a company's financial results look better than they really are. Typically, cooking the books...

  4. May 10, 2023 · The meaning of COOK THE BOOKS is to alter official accounting records in order to deceive or mislead. How to use cook the books in a sentence.

  5. “Cooking the books” is a colloquial expression we use in English to describe manipulating financial records fraudulently or deceptively. The whole idea is usually undertaken by people or businesses to make them look more financially successful than they are or hide how much money they made to cheat on taxes.

  6. COOK THE BOOKS definition: 1. to change numbers dishonestly in the accounts (= financial records) of an organization…. Learn more.

  7. What's the meaning of the phrase 'Cooking the books'? The deliberate distorting of a firms financial accounts, often with the aim of avoiding the payment of tax. What's the origin of the phrase 'Cooking the books'?

  8. “Cooking the books” refers to the practice of using accounting procedure in an intentionally misleading way. By cooking the books, a corporation’s profits – or at least what appear to be its profits – can be increased.

  9. Mar 28, 2024 · Cook the books is a slang term for using accounting tricks to make a company’s financial results look better than they really are. Typically, cooking the books involves manipulating financial data to inflate a company’s revenue and deflate its expenses in order to pump up its earnings or profit.

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