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  1. Mar 5, 2023 · Carburetors can be scary to some people. Rebuilding a carb doesn't have to be hard, or complicated. We use the K.I.S.S. principle (Keep It Simple Stupid) and...

    • 51 min
    • 29.9K
    • Rebeldryver's Garage
  2. Join in with the Turnin Rust crew for this Start To Finish special! It's not very often you come across the chance of finding a TRUE Barn Find!! Covered in y...

    • 85 min
    • 2.2M
    • Turnin Rust
  3. Carburetor Rebuild Basics covers the basics of rebuilding a carburetor. Now there are a LOT of different carburetors out there so this video won't apply to a...

    • 31 min
    • 491.2K
    • EricTheCarGuy
    • Fuel Inlet Removal
    • Fuel Bowl Removal
    • Metering Bowl Disassembly
    • Float Removal
    • Needle and Seat Removal
    • Accelerator Pump Removal
    • Accelerator Pump Discharge Nozzle Removal
    • Jet Removal
    • Power Valve Removal
    • Overflow Whistle Removal

    On a 4150 or 4500 carburetor, the primary and secondary fuel bowl inlet fittings thread directly into the bowls; they use a male hex drive. Depending on the specific carburetor, either a 1- or 3/4-inch wrench is required. Models requiring a 1-inch wrench have little access between the hex and bowl. It’s common to use a 1-inch open-end wrench, engag...

    With the carb mounted on a support stand, place a shop towel under the primary fuel bowl to catch any residual fuel. Remove each of the four fuel-bowl screws, along with each screw’s sealing washer using a 5/16-inch socket with a 1/4-inch-drive ratchet. This combination provides maximum clearance between the socket wrench and the fuel bowl. The was...

    If your carburetor is a 4150 or 4500, removal of the fuel bowl and metering block is identical to the steps you used during the primary-side service. If your carb is a 4160, you may have an external fuel transfer tube on the driver’s side. With the primary fuel bowl removed, you can simply pull the tube out of the secondary fuel bowl. The sealing g...

    The 4150 and 4500 carbs have center-hung floats; the 4160 carbs have side-hung floats. To remove a center-hung float, remove the two 6-32 x 1/2–inch screws that secure the float hinge to the bowl. This requires a small flat-blade screwdriver. A side-hung float pivots on a horizontal pin. A light spring on the underside of the float arm provides a s...

    On a 4150 or 4500 carb, the needle and seat assembly in the primary and secondary fuel bowls are located at the top center of each fuel bowl.

    The accelerator pump on the primary fuel bowl (and on the secondary fuel bowl of a Double Pumper carb) is secured with four 8-32 screws. The screws’ length on 4150 and 4160 carbs is 3/8 inch; 4500 carbs tend to use a thicker housing, requiring a screw length of 9/16 inch. A plastic cam is located at the throttle shaft where the accelerator pump ope...

    The discharge nozzle, on either the primary or secondary side, is secured with a single 12-28 Phillips-head screw at the top of the main body between the front two barrels (and between the rear two barrels on a Double Pumper). Hold the discharge squirter steady and remove the screw. One small, thin metal sealing washer is under the screw head and o...

    Main metering jets have a straight driver slot. A flat-blade screwdriver may be used, but a much better tool choice is a dedicated jet driver such as the one offered by Holley. This tool has a male tang that engages the slot and a centering tip that keeps the tool centered on the jet, which eliminates the chance of the tool slipping off the slot du...

    The power valve is threaded into the metering block from the rear. The body of the power valve has a four-sided flat drive instead of a hex. A 1-inch wrench is required for removal or installation. The flats on the power valve are fairly shallow. Although a conventional open-end, box, or socket wrench may be used, a superior choice is a dedicated p...

    The white plastic overflow whistle is located on the upper area of the metering block (if so equipped) and is held in its metering block slot with a single interference-fit pin.

  4. Oct 1, 2013 · 3. Unlike the typical parts store rebuild kit, Holley’s Custom Shop truly rebuilds all aspects of the carburetor, including sanding away the staked-in-place throttle plate screws so the throttle ...

  5. Aug 25, 2018 · The guide is split into two parts, and shows you all the tools and replacement parts you'll need to get the job done properly. The videos are pretty in-depth—the first one is about 40 minutes ...

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  7. Aug 18, 2022 · Once you rebuild carburetor, confirm all of the external fuel, electrical (choke), linkage, and any other connections are properly in place. Also, make sure the carburetor to intake gasket is properly sealed. Then start the engine, and recheck that the idle is between 800-1000 rpms and adjust if needed. Also, check the fast idle setting and ...

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