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Nov 11, 2024 · Light in the ocean travels at a velocity equal to the velocity of light in a vacuum divided by the index of refraction \((n)\), which is typically \(n = 1.33\). Hence the velocity in water is about \(2.25 \times 10^{8}\) m/s. Because light travels slower in water than in air, some light is reflected at the sea surface.
- Refraction: When Waves Slow Down and Change Direction
- Reflection: When Waves Bounce Back
- Interference: When Waves Affect Each Other
- Resonance: When Waves ‘Slosh’ to and Fro
- Diffraction: When Waves Bend
Refraction is the change in direction of a wave as it slows down. In shallower water near the coast, waves slow down because of the forceexerted on them by the seabed. If a wave is approaching the coast at an angle, the nearshore part of the wave slows more than the offshore part of the wave (because it’s in shallower water). This is why the wavefr...
Reflection of water waves at a coast is usually not an important part of their behaviour, unless the coast has a steep cliff or a seawall. However, reflected waves tend to interfere with the oncoming waves, and these patterns can be studied. A tsunami wave can reflect off continental shelves, ocean ridges and large reefs under the sea. Reflected ts...
When two waves travelling in different directions meet, they combine their energies and form interference patterns. This can result in regions of very high waves when they add up (constructive interference) alternating with regions of diminished or no waves when they cancel out (destructive interference). Interference is important for surfers becau...
A tsunami wave coming into a bay can cause the water in the whole bay to ‘slosh’ backwards and forwards. This is called resonance, and it happens when the frequencyof the tsunami wave is similar to the natural oscillating frequency (resonant frequency) of the body of water in the bay. Resonance can push the water level really high, making the effec...
When waves get to a barrier such as an offshore rock or a small gap such as the opening to a harbour, they don’t go straight past the barrier or carry on straight after going through the gap. Instead, they bend – they curve outwards after passing through a gap and spread around an object. This is diffraction. It happens when the wavelengthof the wa...
- Reflection. Reflection is when incident light (incoming light) hits an object and bounces off. Very smooth surfaces such as mirrors reflect almost all incident light.
- Absorption. Absorption occurs when photons from incident light hit atoms and molecules and cause them to vibrate. The more an object's molecules move and vibrate, the hotter it becomes.
- Diffraction. Diffraction is the bending and spreading of waves around an obstacle. It is most pronounced when a light wave strikes an object with a size comparable to its own wavelength.
- Scatter. Scattering occurs when light bounces off an object in a variety of directions. The amount of scattering that takes place depends on the wavelength of the light and the size and structure of the object.
Water is very effective at absorbing incoming light, so the amount of light penetrating the ocean declines rapidly (is attenuated) with depth (Figure 6.5.2). At 1 m depth, only 45% of the solar energy that falls on the ocean surface remains. At 10 m depth only 16% of the light is still present, and only 1% of the original light is left at 100 m ...
7.2: Waves. Page ID. Waves form on the ocean and lakes because energy from the wind is transferred to the water. The stronger the wind, the longer it blows, and the larger the area of water over which it blows (the fetch), the larger the waves are likely to be. The essential parameters of a wave are its wavelength (the horizontal distance ...
Reflection, refraction and diffraction are all boundary behaviors of waves associated with the bending of the path of a wave. The bending of the path is an observable behavior when the medium is a two- or three-dimensional medium. Reflection occurs when there is a bouncing off of a barrier. Reflection of waves off straight barriers follows the ...
People also ask
Why do waves form on the ocean and lakes?
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How do waves travel from deep water to shallow water?
Red light has the lowest energy. In water, colors with lower energy, such as reds, oranges, and yellows are filtered out quickly. Because blue and violet light waves have more energy, they travel deeper through water. A view of a mussel bed near New Zealand at 100 m depth, lit only by sunlight. Note the blue color tones.