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Replacing your boat trailer's wheel bearings and seals is easiest if you pull one of the hubs and remove the inner and outer bearings and grease seal. The part numbers for these items usually appear as shown in the linked photo, and knowing the part numbers is the surest way to know you have selected the correct replacement parts.
- (Not shown) Jack the trailer tire on one side high enough so that the tire spins freely, and place a jack stand beneath the frame. Chock the opposite trailer wheel.
- Remove the dust cover or Bearing Buddy with a screwdriver. If the grease is milky, water has entered the bearing assembly. If the grease has a different color, it can mean newer grease was added.
- Remove the cotter pin, castle washer (some trailers have castle-style axle nuts — see diagram above — in which case there's no castle washer), axle nut, spindle/axle washer and set aside for safekeeping as you'll be using them again.
- Remove the grease seal. Notice the grease on the inner hub in this photo. That's proof the inner seal has failed. Use channel lock pliers or a seal puller to remove the seal.
The part # AKIHUB-545-35-G-EZ-K is an idler hub that is rated for 3,500 lb axles. It has a Galvanized finish and uses a 5 on 4-1/2 inch bolt pattern for the wheels. It uses the following bearings and grease seal: Now if you were to have brakes on your boat trailer then you will simply want to use part # 8-247-50UC3-EZ instead which has the ...
- Take Off The Wheel and Hub
- Disassemble The Hub
- Inspect The Race
- Reassemble The Hub
- Repack The Trailer Bearings
- Install The Dust Cap Or Bearing Protectors
Remove Tire and Grease Cap:
1. Remove the tire and wheel from the trailer. 2. Now use a flathead screwdriver to remove the grease cap. 2.1. You should be able to pry off the grease cap by working the screwdriver in a circular motion. 2.2. If you have bearing protectors, tap on the cover as you spin the hub.
Remove Castle Nut on the Spindle:
1. After the grease cap on the spindleis removed, the castle nut should be visible. The castle nut holds the hub and bearings in place. 2. You will then see one of three devices that lock the nut onto the spindle. The most common is a cotter pin. Just bend it straight and pull it out. 3. Then you may see what is called a "tang washer." 3.1. Wipe the extra grease off the nut and look for a "tab" that is in one of the notches of the castle nut. 4. With your screwdriver, push the tab back toward...
Remove the Hub:
1. If the hub is in good condition, it should slide right off the spindle. 2. Use a paper towel to hold in the outer bearing as you pull off the hub. 3. If the hub is stuck, rock it in a circular motion to help slide it off. 3.1. If that does not work, use a mallet to tap the back side of the hub in a few places. 4. If the bearing is frozen to the spindle, you will have to knock off the hub with some force. 4.1. When this happens, often the hub will come off but the bearing and seal will stay...
Remove Outer Bearing:
1. Pull out the outer bearing and spindle washer. 2. The outer bearing is closest to the outside of the hub. 2.1. It is the one that hit the ground if you did not catch it when you were pulling off the hub. 3. Set the bearing aside.
Remove Inner Bearing and Seal:
1. Now you will need to remove the inner bearing and seal. (With luck it was not stuck on the spindle). 2. Place the hub, with the wheel studs facing up on a hollow cinder block or on a couple of 2x4s. 3. Then use a 1" wood dowel rod or scrap lumber that will fit into the center of the hub. 3.1. Place the dowel rod against the inner bearing and knock out the bearing with the mallet. 3.2. Do this in a circular motion. 3.3. The reason for wood is that it will transmit the force of the hammer bu...
Clean and Inspect Bearings:
1. Wipe down the bearings and check their condition. 1.1. Look for nicks in the roller and dents in the roller cage. 1.2. If you see any of these problems or if you see lines, spots, or discoloration of the metal, discard the bearings. 2. If everything passes inspection, clean out the bearings and allow them to dry. 3. The best way to clean out the bearings is by using a heavy-duty degreaser and a paper towel. 3.1. Make sure to wipe down the bearing after it has been cleaned. 3.2. In a pinch,...
Check the Race:
1. Examine the surface of the race as you did with the bearings. Look for nicks and discoloration. 1.1. If you see something you are not sure about, try running your fingernail over the mark; if it catches, the race will have to be replaced. 2. Typically, if you have to get new bearings it is a good idea to replace the races, too. 3. Also, like the bearings, the race will have an identification number stamped on one end. 3.1. You can also use etrailer's bearing chartto find the corresponding...
Remove the Races:
1. If the races have to be replaced, get out your old flathead screwdriver and mallet. 2. When looking through the center of the hub, you will see the edge of the race sticking out. 3. Working from the inside out, use the screwdriver to grab the edge and knock out the old race. 3.1. Use a circular motion. 3.2. This job will take some time. 4. If the race comes out rather easily or pops out on the third whack, chances are that the hub will need to be replaced too. 5. Hub assembliesare availabl...
Clean Hub:
1. After the bearings and races have been worked out, clean the inner part of the hub. 2. Remove any extra grease or buildup you see. 3. Make sure that the inner hub is as clean as possible. This will help make it easier to reinstall the races and bearings. 4. Also, if you are working on a drum, the cleaner it is the easier it will be to slide back over the brake assembly.
Begin to Reassemble the Hub:
1. Now that everything is clean and has passed inspection, start the reassembly process by installing the new races. 2. First, place the race in the hub, thin edge towards the outside. 3. Carefully tap in the race until it is level with the hub. 4. After the race is level, the old race can be used to push the new race farther into the hub. 4.1. Be careful not to get the old race stuck. 5. After a couple of hits, switch to the biggest socket that you can fit in the inner part of the hub. 6. Ca...
Grease the Races:
1. On standard utility trailers, grease just the surface of the races. 2. There is no need to grease the entire hub unless you are working on a boat trailer. 2.1. On boat trailers, grease is used not only to protect the bearings but also to help keep water out. 2.2. Bearing protectors or bearing buddiescan be used to make sure enough grease is in the boat trailer hub. 2.3. Be careful when using bearing protectors not to overfill the hub with grease because too much grease can blow out through...
Pack the Bearings:
1. The next step is to pack the bearings with grease. 2. You need to fill every space of the bearing with grease. 3. You can use a bearing packer, or the bearings can be repacked by hand. 3.1. If you are going to do it by hand, start with a gob of grease in your palm and then press the bearing into the grease with some force. 3.2. Do this one section at a time and overlap the sections. Start on the front and then move to the back side of the bearing. Shop for bearing packers
Insert Inner Bearing and Seal:
1. Turn the hub over so that the front side with the wheel studs faces down on the table. 2. Place the inner bearing in the hub and install the seal on top. 3. Tap the seal in a circular motion until it sits flush. 4. Next, apply a thin layer of grease to the spindle. 5. Then slide on the hub. 5.1. Be sure the seal is set in the proper position on the spindle.
Insert Outer Bearing and Seal:
1. With the hub already on the spindle, you can now install the outer bearing. 2. Slide it in while rocking the hub back and forth until the bearing is seated into the race.
The dust cap will install directly over the castle nut. You should be able to start installation of the dust cap with your hands by pressing it into the center of the hub. After it has been started, use a piece of wood to tap it in the rest of the way. Make sure the outer lip on the dust cap is tight against the hub or drum. The wood will help you ...
Sep 13, 2022 · 9. Turn the wheel over and install the outer race. Then lift the wheel onto the spindle being careful not to poke the grease seal with the spindle’s outer edge. Grease the race and add the outer bearing. 10. Next, add the spindle washer and axle nut/castle nut, tightening until it stops.
Look for signs like squeaking, reduced braking performance, or corrosion around the brake components. Inspect both the disc or drum surfaces and brake pads. Replacement Steps : For brake pads, remove the wheel and brake caliper, swap out the old pads for new ones, and reassemble.
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Keel Rollers – Boat trailer keel rollers come in many different sizes and shapes. To help identify which rollers you have on your trailer, simply visit our main rollers page which lists all sizes and shapes available. View our keep rollers here. Wobble Rollers – Wobble rollers on a multi roller trailer are very important.
