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  1. 2) Make a copy of the airfoil from a scrap piece of arborite (Formica or other thin counter top type material). Use this pattern to cut out the ribs, either with a sharp X-Acto knife, or Jig saw. 3) Cut out rib forms as in 2 above, stack a bunch of precut balsa rectangular pieces together, and hold them together with long blots (1/16 or 3/32 " diameter).

  2. We do this by dividing the full-scale wingspan by the model wingspan: Ratio of full-scale aircraft to model = 448 inches / 60 inches = 7.47. So, the scale is 1/7.47. This just happens to be 7% more than 1/7 scale and 7% less than 1/8 scale. There’s not a lot of 1/7-scale stuff out there, but 1/8 scale is pretty common.

  3. Mar 19, 2019 · Next, smooth out the foil starting at the center using a paper stump (available from a craft store). Rub, rub, rub, and rub until the foil is smooth. Note the natural grain of the foil. Trim the edges of the foil along the panel lines. If you have steady hands you will not need a straight edge to help trim the foil.

  4. Apr 7, 2010 · All I am trying to do is I have a several Hasagawa F-16's that I want to build. One each of an "A" and a "B" model with Twobob decals in Navy Aggressor markings, and then two "C" models with ANG markings for Colorado Mile High Militia (my home state) and South Dakota Lobos (I love SD and I love wolves)

    • Filling and Sanding
    • Putty and Filler
    • Sanding
    • Other Filling Materials
    • Clear Parts
    • Adding The Details
    • Building Plastic Model Aircraft Kits

    Even the best model and the most careful dry-fitting will often result in a “seam” or join line between the assembled parts. Removing the seams and join lines is essential for the model to look like a fine replica of a real-life object, and not just a bunch of plastic parts sloppily glued together. Some assemblies almost always tend to result in un...

    You should always try to eliminate gaps and seams as much as you possibly can. To fill the gaps, most often you will need some filling material or model putty. Different modellers swear by different brands of putty, but some of the most common brands are Squadron Green and Testors Contour Putty. They are both readily available in hobby stores and c...

    When the gaps have been filled and the putty is dry, you are in for a boring but nevertheless necessary task; you must now sand the filled joins. Start with 800 grit wet-and-dry sandpaper and gradually work your way down to 1200 or even 1500 grit sandpaper. Be very careful not to sand off too much plastic, or you may ruin the subtle shapes of your ...

    For major filling and reshaping work, you can use epoxy putty instead (such as Milliput). This putty is somewhat more difficult to work with because it consists of two different chemicals that must be mixed before use. The benefit is that it is stronger and smoother than single-component putty, and does not crack quite as easily when applied in hea...

    Clear parts, such as canopies, are sometimes quite badly scratched and optically distorted. This is even more usual for older and cheaper kits. In modern and more exclusive model kits the transparent parts are often separately bagged inside the box. Clear parts can also be sanded, even if you probably don’t want to do that on your first model. Apar...

    When the major parts of the model are assembled, the join lines are filled, sanded and primed, it’s time to add the fins, stabilizers, pylons and the rest of the main parts to the model. This is quite a relaxing and pleasant step of a model building project. Work slowly and carefully, and enjoy how all those plastic parts slowly turn into a single ...

  5. Oct 20, 2018 · Step 3: making the back side of the canopy. For a weird reason guillows have made it so that the canopy is made in two parts. And believe me when I say that this is the most difficult part of this model, other guillow 500 series models in which you must make a similar part are the Spitfire, Hellcat and P-40 Warhawk.

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  7. Jan 27, 2020 · Let’s start putting this airplane together! Right here in this first step we can see four of the established “conventions” of stick-and-tissue model building in use. First, you can see how the plan sheet is spread out flat and fastened down (there are thumbtacks outside the frame). Glue sticks to plans made of paper.

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